I need about 15 yards.....

We can help you get Suede. What do you need? Shoot us an email:

info@affordablecoversandmore.com

I'll drop ship it to you directly from my warehouse if you want.

-Josh

you got the cheap suede or the good suede..cuz i heard the cheap stuff wears out quik if you got it on yo seats

We have both, but just depends on what the customer wants. If the suede is going to see a lot of use (seats), then we always try to get the customer to step up to the premium suede which has almost twice as much "rub" protection. IE: they rate suede on "double rubs" - meaning you rub it back & forth, that is a double rub. Some are only like 20k double rubs, whereas there are some others that are 100k double rubs, etc.

ACM im bout to pm u

so wat the price difference in the 20k double rub and 100k double rub? cuz ima be havin suede inserts on the main seat part and leather on the outside

i'm doing the same setup

3pc mafia got good dat suede...

i kno but 3pc hardly answers my pm's back..so that y i ask this kat


u doin it in the bubble or the vic?

Yea whats the price difference and do you have a example of the difference?

My dude had some good suede for 62 a yard just trying to see if I can get some decent quality for a better price.My interior all suede & glass and mostly weekend driver.

bubble, vic ain't getting no love

koo...juz usin the vic for a daily now huh or u juz got tired of it?

We have a micro fiber suede which is the 100,000 double rubs wear resistance and includes a stain repellant finish. This is $36/yard, plus shipping/tax.

We've got a middle of the line sude which is 60,000 double rubs & also has the stain repellant finish and is $24/yard, plus shipping/tax.

We also have the cheap stuff which is 20,000 double rubs, which is $15/yard, plus shipping/tax.

really just got to the point where i was tired of buying rims, and plus i was gonna go all out on a car and it was gonna be the last one for a while, so i said to myself i might as well do the car i always wanted since i was a little kid

dayum those sound like good prices cuz id get the good shit juz for the seats n the less thread for like headliner and plastic pieces since they dont get touched...wish i was closer to knoin exactly how i want my interior cuz then id com get sum of it

looks like i know who i will be ordering my material from, i was told that suede doesnt form good around curvy surfaces cause it's not a good stretch type material like when being wraped around curvy fiberglass shapes, is that true?

iono but imma wrap my plastic pilars wit it..ive seen that dun and it held up...guess it depends how curvy the glasswork is i guess...like of you got juz alil bit of curvage from speakers on a door panel you shoud be good

yeah i know the the pillars can de wrapped with it, i know i'mma do my pillars and roof with that cheap shit

yup me 2 cuz that shit neva gets touched...juz want the high quality for the seats and not usin to much,juz inserts in the middle n rest in eitha a ostrich or croc or leather..not to sure yet

941cutty,

If you want to call and talk to either myself or Cache, we'd be more than happy to help you try and figure out a direction to go with your interior.

In regards to buying the good suede for the seats, and then the cheaper stuff for the other spots - that's not typically the way we roll. We're all about an overall product; classy, perfect, flawless, etc. Having said that, it's not *that* big of a price savings for you to drop down to the cheaper stuff, and get the "cheaper look" - because you WILL notice a difference. Each lot of suede gets dyed at different times, so sometimes even if you order the same suede from the same vendor at two different times, it can be a shade off. So jumping from one level of suede to the next, this typically happens as well. You'll get shade variances. That's just not our goal for our customers, man.

Also, if you order in 10 yard increments - we can give you a price break too. Our vendors do this for us, and in turn, I'll pass the savings on to you, the customer. It takes about 10 yards to do a full gut like we did on the '99 Merc on this forum.

Hope this info helps, and we look forward to lending a hand to anyone on this forum that we can.

Thanks,
-Josh, Cache & Charlie-
Affordable Covers & More
Spring Hill, FL (that's 352)

Yeah man, anything's true if you're not good. I'm sure you guys saw the '99 Merc we did. There is a LOT that is wrapped with suede, that "shouldn't be" (in the eyes of your typical trim shop). IE: the gauge pod/cluster area. This is where we seperate ourselves from the run-of-the-mill interior shops.

Now, some extreme curves are VERY difficult to get wrapped perfect - and let's not get it twisted, we strive for PERFECT on every job - so sometimes we will even have to stitch some areas of the wrap to get it to form right around the extreme curve(s) of the panel. In those cases, we use a french seam (double stitch) to make the stitch appear as appealing as possible w/o disrupting the flow of the overall job.

Suede is not like a vinyl that you can heat and stretch. Leather can't be heated either (well, it can, but you have to be VERY careful not to ruin the hide - and it's not worth it in the long run).

It's actually funny, some of the smaller 'glass jobs are the hardest to wrap. Due to the nature of the 'glass job, the turns/curves/hills may not be "big" but they're usually "tight" - in other words, the radius' of the turns are very tight, and thus hard as hell to wrap.

You should be 110% okay with wrapping your pillars. Make sure you do not buy any type of "glue" to do the job. Make sure you find and buy a commercial grade contact cement. There is a difference. Contact cement is applied to BOTH sides of the project - you apply it to the back of the suede and to the pillar posts. Before applying the cement to the pillar posts, I recommend you use a few step process to prep them:

1.) all-purpose the plastics
2.) dry
3.) scuff plastics with scotch brite or a fine grit sandpaper
4.) clean with lacquer thinner on a rag
5.) let air dry

This will ensure you get the most successful "grip" from the cement onto the plastics, ensuring you the best longevity for the project to set trends for many moons to come!

These tips brought to you by the letters AC&M

thanx for the tips cuz i wana do all my plastics and the pieces that hold the headliner up n headliner in suede....and inserts in the middle of the seats and eitha my door pods painted or wrapped in suded but after you sayin the lil curves are the hardest to cover then prolly juz paint em and my console il paint..and then leather the rest of the seats...or mite do croc inserts on the seats to switch it up alil or ostrich..not sure yet

No doubt bruh, anytime.

Like I said, let us know if we can help you make your decision(s) at all. We got tons of samples here you can look through, and you can even check out our video on YouTube to see how the different exotics look next to one another on like some of the motorcycle seats we do.

where you located at anyways? cuz ive heard of srpinghill befo

Spring Hill is about 35-45 minutes North of Tampa via the Veteran's Expressway. Here's a link to us on Google:

http://maps.google.com/maps/place?cid=3207...rs%2Band%2Bmore