I will show the removal of the SBC 305 from my truck and continue with installing the new motor and the torques converter.
Here are the initial pics showing the motor in the car and subsequent removal
Motor out and on storage stand.
Full Version: SBC 355 BUILD
Ok I decided to do a lil sumn different with the motors and the 66 Impala. I will start the motor build over and show the progress in this thread. As you remember so time ago I took it out the impala and started breaking it down well now I have to complete it cause I sold the motor out of my truck.
I will show the removal of the SBC 305 from my truck and continue with installing the new motor and the torques converter.
Here are the initial pics showing the motor in the car and subsequent removal
Motor out and on storage stand.
I will show the removal of the SBC 305 from my truck and continue with installing the new motor and the torques converter.
Here are the initial pics showing the motor in the car and subsequent removal
Motor out and on storage stand.
doin a firecraka job der
good shit
QUOTE (jr757hood @ Jan 19 2009, 12:47 PM) 
Thanks. Im trying to decide whether to go full roller rockers or roller tip rockers. Hopefully this weather allows time to pressure wash the block if not I will try to clean it here in the garage.
you should go with the full rockers.....Ive seen both of them but the fulls are better to me.
Just a suggestion...
Make sure you get some royal purple break in oil or something equivalent, and when I say equivalent, I mean something with a very high zinc and phosphorus content (commonly known as ZDDP). Also, when you change your oil, you want to either add some ZDDP to your oil or find an oil with at least 1000 ppm of it in the oil, which is hard to find. Royal Purple, Valvoline V1 racing oil, and Mobile 1 T4 Racing oil has it in there. I'm sure there are others, but those you find on the shelf in your local auto parts stores have more detergents in them, which defeats the purpose of a high ZDDP content.
Good build so far. Keep us updated!
and yeh, go full roller rockers if you can. Less resistance = good If you don't have the money to do it now, continue to run the flat tappet, but whenever you get a chance to upgrade, upgrade to the roller lifters with a roller cam You'll see a nice power increase with the increased lift and the ability to spin the motor a lot higher rpm's too!
Make sure you get some royal purple break in oil or something equivalent, and when I say equivalent, I mean something with a very high zinc and phosphorus content (commonly known as ZDDP). Also, when you change your oil, you want to either add some ZDDP to your oil or find an oil with at least 1000 ppm of it in the oil, which is hard to find. Royal Purple, Valvoline V1 racing oil, and Mobile 1 T4 Racing oil has it in there. I'm sure there are others, but those you find on the shelf in your local auto parts stores have more detergents in them, which defeats the purpose of a high ZDDP content.
Good build so far. Keep us updated!
and yeh, go full roller rockers if you can. Less resistance = good
If you don't have the money to do it now, continue to run the flat tappet, but whenever you get a chance to upgrade, upgrade to the roller lifters with a roller cam You'll see a nice power increase with the increased lift and the ability to spin the motor a lot higher rpm's too!
nice details man
Once I finished breaking down the block I took the time to write out all the numbers for the different parts. Here is what Im working with:
1. GM Block 3970014 Conv2 - 2 bolt main 68-76 210-300HP
2. GM Heads 3947041 Conv4 - 68-70 1.94/1.50 & 2.02/1.6 290-370HP 64 CC Chambers
3. GM Crankshaft 3932442 - 3.48 69-85 2.45/2.10 cast large journal
4. Lunati Camshaft 60104 - Hydraulic Flat Tappet Op Range: 2200-6400 Lift:.504/.525
5. Speed Pro Pistons H345NP.030 - Hypereutic Flat Four Valve Relief
6. Eagle Rods SCR-5700BP
7. ARP Bolts
I also documented where all items came from by number.
Small Update: I checked the piston heads for pin holes and didn't have any, inspected the cam to ensure all eggs head were not worn, and inspected drive shaft for the same. I ran my hands down the cylinder walls to make sure there was nothing in there. Made sure it was smooth.
After inspecting everything I eventually found the problem. I had a couple cracked lifters. I can’t figure out how my cam survived but I guess I got lucky. Here are pics:
I degreased and hosed down the block. After cleaning the block and rinsing well I had to blow dry it. This is a little time consuming but its well worth it. After getting all the water out I towel dried the rest and blew it out again. After all this I spray the motor down with Multi Purpose Lubricant (MPL).
Tomorrow I have to clean the heads and start putting block back together. I will also start pulling the motor and tranny from the truck. It easier pulling both and it allows me to clean and paint the tranny to match the motor.
Breaking down the block
Heads being cleaned.
Painting and putting everything back together.
Sorry most of the pics are out of order but I mistakenly moved them to another folder. I will be completing this motor by the end of the week. I ordered a Proform Electric water pump but need to order alternator brackets so I can use it. Im ordering the brackets from March with are $100.
1. GM Block 3970014 Conv2 - 2 bolt main 68-76 210-300HP
2. GM Heads 3947041 Conv4 - 68-70 1.94/1.50 & 2.02/1.6 290-370HP 64 CC Chambers
3. GM Crankshaft 3932442 - 3.48 69-85 2.45/2.10 cast large journal
4. Lunati Camshaft 60104 - Hydraulic Flat Tappet Op Range: 2200-6400 Lift:.504/.525
5. Speed Pro Pistons H345NP.030 - Hypereutic Flat Four Valve Relief
6. Eagle Rods SCR-5700BP
7. ARP Bolts
I also documented where all items came from by number.
Small Update: I checked the piston heads for pin holes and didn't have any, inspected the cam to ensure all eggs head were not worn, and inspected drive shaft for the same. I ran my hands down the cylinder walls to make sure there was nothing in there. Made sure it was smooth.
After inspecting everything I eventually found the problem. I had a couple cracked lifters. I can’t figure out how my cam survived but I guess I got lucky. Here are pics:
I degreased and hosed down the block. After cleaning the block and rinsing well I had to blow dry it. This is a little time consuming but its well worth it. After getting all the water out I towel dried the rest and blew it out again. After all this I spray the motor down with Multi Purpose Lubricant (MPL).
Tomorrow I have to clean the heads and start putting block back together. I will also start pulling the motor and tranny from the truck. It easier pulling both and it allows me to clean and paint the tranny to match the motor.
Breaking down the block
Heads being cleaned.
Painting and putting everything back together.
Sorry most of the pics are out of order but I mistakenly moved them to another folder. I will be completing this motor by the end of the week. I ordered a Proform Electric water pump but need to order alternator brackets so I can use it. Im ordering the brackets from March with are $100.
good shit
Waiting on March Alternator bracket for Electric water pump and the motor will be complete. I hope to have pics of the installation in truck by the weekend.
QUOTE (jr757hood @ Feb 9 2009, 05:47 PM)
Waiting on March Alternator bracket for Electric water pump and the motor will be complete. I hope to have pics of the installation in truck by the weekend.
BET
Here is where I stand now. I received the brackets from March but haven't mounted them.
I was just messing around and painted my trannies with the Chrome paint. Im going to leave them like this cause no one will see them.
I was just messing around and painted my trannies with the Chrome paint. Im going to leave them like this cause no one will see them.
Update Feb 14, 2009
I finally got the motor installed in the truck but with a couple problems:
1. Broke one of the bolt housings on the tranny (still usable)
2. Leaked tranny fluid everywhere.
3. Lost some of my bolts
4. Electric fan didn't work out and March brackets didn't mak it fit. Sent back to summit.
Things left to do:
1. Tighten tranny to motor
2. Reconnect the Drive shaft
3. Install Distributor, Carb, Power Steering Pump,Radiator, Electric Fan, fuel pump, and reconnect wires.
4. I plan on cranking this thing by Monday.
Here are some pictures.
I finally got the motor installed in the truck but with a couple problems:
1. Broke one of the bolt housings on the tranny (still usable)
2. Leaked tranny fluid everywhere.
3. Lost some of my bolts
4. Electric fan didn't work out and March brackets didn't mak it fit. Sent back to summit.
Things left to do:
1. Tighten tranny to motor
2. Reconnect the Drive shaft
3. Install Distributor, Carb, Power Steering Pump,Radiator, Electric Fan, fuel pump, and reconnect wires.
4. I plan on cranking this thing by Monday.
Here are some pictures.
so this was going in your truck.. thats whats up.. i got mines up n running bout 3 weeks ago..
do you have any interior pieces you wanna sell
do you have any interior pieces you wanna sell
How's the build coming?
Im back at work so my time with the truck is limited plus its been kinda cold. I only have to hook up headers, carb, power steeering pump, radiator, electric fan,and tranny. I really want this finished by the weekend. I have also been trying to get the motor built for my 66 Impala. I hope to have updates soon.
Keep us posted. I'm bout to pull mine and go ahead and rebuild it. The rear main is leaking, among other things... so I might as well rebuild. Gonna go ahead and have the tranny built, too, while its out.
Motor situated enuff for a first fire. I tried to fire it Saturday but had no luck my timing was way off. Here is a video of it running. Bear in mind that the motor isnt tuned properly and I still have to adjusting and things to do.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8fnC7vSdpo
Motor sounds nice and strong but I have some exhaust leaks to fix.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8fnC7vSdpo
Motor sounds nice and strong but I have some exhaust leaks to fix.
nice
Thanks for the compliment. I can't wait to drive it with the new motor and smaller rims.
You did break it in before that video, though, right?
No, that was the first start up. The truck didn't run for long just enuff to try and get the fuel delivery set but we couldn't finish that cause I was leaking fuel everywhere. I did take your advice and use some break in additive along with full synthetic oil.
Maybe you should explain the break it process to me. I made sure I had my mechanic there with me for the first start.
Maybe you should explain the break it process to me. I made sure I had my mechanic there with me for the first start.
what kind of cam is it? theres diff break-ins depending on cam esp. if its new
QUOTE (St. Pete @ Mar 28 2009, 12:22 PM)
what kind of cam is it? theres diff break-ins depending on cam esp. if its new
I reused the cam that was in it because it had no damage. Its a Lunati 504/525 and it should have been broke in. The only new parts in the motor are the lifters and roller tips rockers.
QUOTE (jr757hood @ Mar 28 2009, 08:36 AM)
No, that was the first start up. The truck didn't run for long just enuff to try and get the fuel delivery set but we couldn't finish that cause I was leaking fuel everywhere. I did take your advice and use some break in additive along with full synthetic oil.
Maybe you should explain the break it process to me. I made sure I had my mechanic there with me for the first start.
Maybe you should explain the break it process to me. I made sure I had my mechanic there with me for the first start.
Good job on the break in additive. I hope you SMEARED that cam with moly break in lube, too. When you break in a new motor, you do not want to let it idle. You want to rev it up to at least 1500-2000 rpm's and hold it there for about 20 mins or so so the cam lobes can establish a proper wear pattern in the lifters.
QUOTE (Big Ramsey aka ramdaspadhy @ Mar 28 2009, 01:16 PM)
Good job on the break in additive. I hope you SMEARED that cam with moly break in lube, too. When you break in a new motor, you do not want to let it idle. You want to rev it up to at least 1500-2000 rpm's and hold it there for about 20 mins or so so the cam lobes can establish a proper wear pattern in the lifters.
thanks I will do that on the 400 sbc when I put it in the car
355 sounds nice, tho. Dunno if you know it or not, but I'm selling a mild 268 cam kit for 250 plus shippin, it's the k kit from comp cams.
Finally finished with the small things:
1. dual eletric fans hooked up
2. after market temp gauge
3. Rocker adjusted
4 Needed to weld extension on Power Steering Bracket
Things left:
1. Leaking water
2. Tranny fluid leak
Got truck moved from back to front but here it is running:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0TMgg4IFYg
1. dual eletric fans hooked up
2. after market temp gauge
3. Rocker adjusted
4 Needed to weld extension on Power Steering Bracket
Things left:
1. Leaking water
2. Tranny fluid leak
Got truck moved from back to front but here it is running:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0TMgg4IFYg
really nice build bruh
QUOTE (jr757hood @ Feb 8 2009, 11:00 AM)
Once I finished breaking down the block I took the time to write out all the numbers for the different parts. Here is what Im working with:
1. GM Block 3970014 Conv2 - 2 bolt main 68-76 210-300HP
2. GM Heads 3947041 Conv4 - 68-70 1.94/1.50 & 2.02/1.6 290-370HP 64 CC Chambers
3. GM Crankshaft 3932442 - 3.48 69-85 2.45/2.10 cast large journal
4. Lunati Camshaft 60104 - Hydraulic Flat Tappet Op Range: 2200-6400 Lift:.504/.525
5. Speed Pro Pistons H345NP.030 - Hypereutic Flat Four Valve Relief
6. Eagle Rods SCR-5700BP
7. ARP Bolts
I also documented where all items came from by number.
Small Update: I checked the piston heads for pin holes and didn't have any, inspected the cam to ensure all eggs head were not worn, and inspected drive shaft for the same. I ran my hands down the cylinder walls to make sure there was nothing in there. Made sure it was smooth.
After inspecting everything I eventually found the problem. I had a couple cracked lifters. I can’t figure out how my cam survived but I guess I got lucky. Here are pics: i have a 350 i wanna yurn into a 383 is one of the kits on ebay way to go or would you try something else
I degreased and hosed down the block. After cleaning the block and rinsing well I had to blow dry it. This is a little time consuming but its well worth it. After getting all the water out I towel dried the rest and blew it out again. After all this I spray the motor down with Multi Purpose Lubricant (MPL).
Tomorrow I have to clean the heads and start putting block back together. I will also start pulling the motor and tranny from the truck. It easier pulling both and it allows me to clean and paint the tranny to match the motor.
Breaking down the block
Heads being cleaned.
Painting and putting everything back together.
Sorry most of the pics are out of order but I mistakenly moved them to another folder. I will be completing this motor by the end of the week. I ordered a Proform Electric water pump but need to order alternator brackets so I can use it. Im ordering the brackets from March with are $100.
1. GM Block 3970014 Conv2 - 2 bolt main 68-76 210-300HP
2. GM Heads 3947041 Conv4 - 68-70 1.94/1.50 & 2.02/1.6 290-370HP 64 CC Chambers
3. GM Crankshaft 3932442 - 3.48 69-85 2.45/2.10 cast large journal
4. Lunati Camshaft 60104 - Hydraulic Flat Tappet Op Range: 2200-6400 Lift:.504/.525
5. Speed Pro Pistons H345NP.030 - Hypereutic Flat Four Valve Relief
6. Eagle Rods SCR-5700BP
7. ARP Bolts
I also documented where all items came from by number.
Small Update: I checked the piston heads for pin holes and didn't have any, inspected the cam to ensure all eggs head were not worn, and inspected drive shaft for the same. I ran my hands down the cylinder walls to make sure there was nothing in there. Made sure it was smooth.
After inspecting everything I eventually found the problem. I had a couple cracked lifters. I can’t figure out how my cam survived but I guess I got lucky. Here are pics: i have a 350 i wanna yurn into a 383 is one of the kits on ebay way to go or would you try something else
I degreased and hosed down the block. After cleaning the block and rinsing well I had to blow dry it. This is a little time consuming but its well worth it. After getting all the water out I towel dried the rest and blew it out again. After all this I spray the motor down with Multi Purpose Lubricant (MPL).
Tomorrow I have to clean the heads and start putting block back together. I will also start pulling the motor and tranny from the truck. It easier pulling both and it allows me to clean and paint the tranny to match the motor.
Breaking down the block
Heads being cleaned.
Painting and putting everything back together.
Sorry most of the pics are out of order but I mistakenly moved them to another folder. I will be completing this motor by the end of the week. I ordered a Proform Electric water pump but need to order alternator brackets so I can use it. Im ordering the brackets from March with are $100.
im building a 355 now...wat mufflers you runnin in that vid? that bit sounds good
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