x2 people that deal with motor alot dont know all the shit dat we know pete keep schoolin dez niggas up pete

Step by step again comming back around, for those that aint never done/curious/need help/just want to know what 2 do,

pete did u ever get them heads you was looking for??

L-O L-O Dey know dey know

you always getting shit for the low

gotta shop around, I aint bought shit local yet damn near the whole car bought built from messageboards, online shopping, & CL

Im on a budget

where u at pete? where da pics of dat blower u was tellin me bout.

pete whats good

Shit Just





'N

around LOL

lol.....nigga u wild

naw I got some updates comming, got my daily situtation all together, so I been going hard on it a lil waiting for our weather to get back right, I aint use to this shit!

Good shit Pete. I'm about to start my motor build & this topic definately gave me some info I needed.

pete bull shittn yall, this mf been done.

basically.

I'll put up the shit in a week or two

Let them wait!

(no comming to america)

take'n the pics off my camera as I type, been super lazy lol

we aint got all day

LMAO,

Man I really dont feel like doing all this shit, but I said I was gonaa do it just cuz folks was asking and aint no one else did it, so gimme a sec. putt'n all this shit together

Im just start'n in order I guess,

Ight I had to get my windage tray worked some, (the damn stud install kit that they sale for it aint the best, even though its all ARP bolts, shit was'nt lining up right had to redrill the holes)

Bolts out the mains (yeah I used all studs these pic was just when I was test fitting the tray but its in there)




drop studs in (remember to dip/squirt/pour whatever oil on the threads to make sure you get the correct torque settings)



Torque to the recomended FT/LBS for your application, if im remebering correctly the stud kit was to be torqued 65ft/lbs but on stock sbc I think the mains are 70ft/lbs something like that can always look it up online



*IMPORTANT*

To do the above step you must first understand how to "Torque" bolts with a high setting (anything over I would say 15-20ft/lbs)

example= torque bolts to 65ft/lbs you have/should go in small increments until final torque setting is reached, so to torque to 65ft/lbs first go through all your bolts and torque them to lets say 20ft/lbs, then go back through & torque to 45ft/lbs, then go through again and torque to ya final setting of 65ft/lbs.

DONT
just go right in and torque to 65ft/lbs on the first go around

B4 I could continue had to go dig through the mountain to find parts I needed LOL




Ight, to set your oil pump pick-up angle

first install your pickup onto your pump, some slide in easy some are real real tight. My shit was real real tight fit, so I had to take an adjustable wench and place it around the bottom of the pick-up tube, have a buddy hold the pump then beat on the wrench (not the pump or pick-up) and it will push it right in.



Then take your pump & pickup and place it on your engine with the pick in a really extreme angle that you know will not fit under the pan



Then take your oil pan and place it on the engine and push down on the bottom of it and it will push the pick-up tube down some



then take your pan off and push your pick up tube down about another inch or two, and that should be a decent place for you pick-up to sit

Some pick-ups (like mines) come with a tab that lets you bolt it to the pump so it does not come out during operation & cause engine faliure,



others dont. The ones that dont its usually good practice that after you set the angle of your pick-up to the oil pan that you tack weld it in that position, cheap insurance.

Nice update... My sbc should be comin out tomorrow if the weather holds... then off to the machine shop to get cleaned up and a lil bit shaved outa the cylinders

yeah it finished, just gotta put the rest up & explain a little for all the folks who said they would like to know.

what kinda trans you putting behind it and did you put it in the car yet? if so are you usuing the stock cross member or aftermarket

wtf this aint st pete startin his motor up in the car and a rod flyin threw the oil pan

built 700r4 or 200 depending what my guy talk'n bout. aftermarket cross member for the duals



damn u heard bout that shit way up there, I was pissed!

damn u heard bout that shit way up there, I was pissed!
[/quote]

Damn what happen?

What tranny you got in it now? th350? a 200r4 is the same length as the th350 and will bolt right up depending on if it has the GM bolt pattern vs the BOP, or dual pattern which a lot of them have. I've seen a LOT of people go through 700r's that have been built. I guess the reason the 9 and 10 second grant nats use the 200r4 is cuz they hold up so well when built! Definately go with the 200r4. I'm looking at once not only for the overdrive for cruising, but the better first gear and better reliability than a 700r.

In the midsouth, they're going for between 150 and 400 for one, 400 being one that was pulled from a car with like 40-50k miles.

Some additional info on that 200r4...

http://www.montecarloss.com/SSThunder/drivetrain.html

I believe the there is a 3 inch diffrence between the trans mount on the th350 and 200r....I have also heard about built 200r's being nice transmissions when done right but then again I guess they all could be good transmissions when built right

The transmission mount is approx 6 inches further back, I think, but all is required is drilling new crossmember bolts. 200r4 > 700r4 first gear.

Ight to take off the old crank gear because I cannot use it with my gear drive. Som motors have slip on crank gears others have press-on gears, its you have a slip on style you can just slide it off and will not need a puller.

Can go to advance or autozone or whatever & rent a gear puller ($30 or so), its kinda self explainatory how to put it together, so no need for me to explain that.

take the long bolt and twist it down the middle of the tool into the crank nd then position the hooks of the puller ALL THE WAY behind the gear not on the edges or it will not pull off correctly and it will fall off & u gotta start over again



then just like remove'n the balancer get to turning, keep an eye on the hooks to make sure they are staying in place, there gonna move outward & the gear is going to slide off little by little



you will feel it get loose, just pull it off with your hand then lol



To install the new gear that comes with the gear drive, people have tons of different ways & methods, its simple put, you gotta press/beat it on (be gentle dumbasses LOL) The important thing to remember is that you want to have a even amount of pressure around the entire gearor evenly on two sides when your tapping the gear on



Naw for real Ive seen people use really Long sockets that fit around the crank and are deep enough, kinda like so but bigger & deeper



I just used what I had around, an old steering wheel puller part just bent it down and it works just as find if not better, and gentle tap the end of whatever your using with a plastic hammer or something not so harsh and it will press the gear onto the crank.

Ok with that done, to finally button up the oiling part of the engine (HV oil pump, shaft, rear oil pan baffle, windage tray). Already set the angle of the pick-up and bolted it to the pump as done few post back.

First I had to find the correct depth to set the windage try @. So I need to be able to turn/rotate the engine so I can take some measurements. Simple way, Find a socket that fits over the crank just barely/ tightly so it does'nt fall off





put your torque wrench on it & there you have it, turns/rotates the engine very easy



The windage tray cant be two close to the crank because the Rod bolts will hit it as pictured below, so you have to find a happy medium for the tray to sit by adjusting the bolts below the tray evenly so the tray sits flush & doesnot contact any part of the rotating assembly




1st, put on the rear pan baffle (stops oil from creeping up the rear of the pan)



2nd take your oil pump shaft and hold it in place on the oil pump (it is going to fall down into the engine, but that is fine you just want to make sure that it is lined up correctly so when you turn the engine over it will fall down ontop of the oil pump in the correct position)



then place the windage tray on and hand tight'n the remaining bolts from the kit & the oil pump bolt its self that will olhd everything in place. & torque to the corect settings. (oil pump bolt torqued to 65 ft/lbs & windage tray bolts to 35 ft/lbs) But use the correct torque settings for you engine as I said earlier these are just for SBC, BBC & other makes may have different settings.

Ight, Next thang was to install the cam & timing set and button everthing up & that will be it for your short block!

1st thing1st have al of your supplies on hand, can be a really messy job!!

1. cam (comes with the assembly/break-in lube that you will need)
2. rubber gloves ( with out dat powder bullshit in the inside lol)
3. Your timing set
4. some shop towels
5. assembly lube
6. Timing cover/ gaskets
7. etc. etc. etc. you get the point just have all the shit your gonna need LOL

VERY VERY VERY VERY IMPORTANAT!


Before you start anything with installing the cam, you must first Get your crank & gear in the correct position, When I installed the crank gear it goes on only one way, and if you look closely @ it, there is a little dot on it like so.



that dot is your timing mark, so before installing the cam you want to have the engine with the #1 cylinder @ TDC (top dead center) it is when the #1 piston is @ the top of the cylinder) when the #1 piston is @ TDC the timing mark on the crank geaar will be facing up @ 12 O clock like in the picture above, that is very very very important!!!!

Ok with that out of the way, can install the cam.

1st take it out the box & make sure theres no damage to it or the dist. gear and all cams come with a card that has all the specs on it, check the number on the end of the cam with the number on the card to make sure its the correct cam (they do make mistakes)

Ok gloves on, take the lube that cam with the cam and place a generous (not awhole lot, just enough for good coverage) over the dist gear, first set of journals and the area that is going to sit in the bearing.



Then kind of in the fashion that it cam out, your gonna put it in, one set/group @ a time (repeating the lube process for each one), be very very careful & gentle as you dont want to scare up the bearings, slide it in, may have to giggle it a litte bit & even give it a turn here and there, but it should go in smooth!





As you can see I got tired of the gloves getting in the way LOL, keep going until you get to the last of the cam



Here it is great practice to use a cam installing tool, but you can just use the top portion of your timing set, Take one of the cam bolts and bolt it to the cam, then use it as a handle to slide the rest of the cam into the block (so you dont whip off all of the lube trying to do it with your hands)



& thats is, your cam is in to stay!

Ok one to install the timing set.

Im running a Gear drive some may use timing chains Its still the same concept though. With the gear drive set-up have the option to "Retard" the cam if you would like to (for various/numerous reasons) you do that by installing these little circle pieces on the little steam of the cam, they have a differen offset on them (no need to go into detail about it just kind of explaing) So I am not "retarding" my cam so I just installed the the one for 0 degrees with is perfectly round,



then you install the cam gear wit the cam bolts,

BUT IMPORTANT IMPORTANT

When installing the cam gear you have to make sure that the timing mark on the cam gears lines up with the timing mark on the crank gear! this is the first step in setting you engine timing & it has to be done no if &s or butts!



Once those are lined up, install the cam gears with some lock tight on the threads & the locking plate to make sure that the bolts do not back out on you. The locking plate you just take a screw drive or something flat & bend back one of the tabs against one of the bolts and it will stop the bolt from comming out (if it ever occurs)



Then follow the install instructions with the gear drive, the larger of the gears goes on the left & the side with the "buldge" on it faces towards the block, still had to make sure that the timing makes on the cam gear did not move & stay lined up with teh crank gear




Now with anything that is going so smooth, a problem is bound to come up lol, the instructions in the gear drive states depending on the block/set-up the "buldge" may be to long & come in contact with the block when there is a certian amount of clearance that is needed between the gear & block, So I had to take the gear to the machine shop & have it filed down some to it would fit correctly & fit under the timing cover correctly

Once all is squared away, Put on the timing cover with the gasket (already came with the lower rubber installed and greased) & torqued them to there settings, sometimes when the settings are two low, the torque wrench wont go that low, just use your better judge ment and tighet'n them nicely but not overly tight

lil chrome & billet pieces



Billet CSR fuel pump block off plate, since im running an electric & not mechanical pump, had to do a little touch-up with the paint nothing major.



put the rest up lil later or in the week, too much fucking type'n LOL

good post my nigga........well overdue


we aint sleepin on ya pete

yeha gotta get it out the way already lol

good stuff pete, when u think ur car comin out?

Man its hard to say right now to be honest, alot of waiting on other folks with shit I dont mess with, like paint & body soooooo I aint go even lie & put up a date, Im just trying to put on my blinders & stay focused on my shit ya know

What kinda gears you runnin, Pete? Posi/locker? Gonna go simple "clean" paint or somethin more?

You know I got the GN 8.5 so the 3:42 will do, might bump it up to 3:73 depending on how I feel.

Paint = platinum silver wit a gold pearl and some brandywine on the sides of the cowl to match the brandywine paint interior pieces.

Nice nice! That silver/gold pearl will look nice. I thought about goin with that escalade diamond white pearl with a gold pearl in it, too. I think it'd flip pretty hard.

yeah when I seen this one roadster (some ford kinda shit, ya know older crowd type shit) roun here pearl'n real hard, was a blue with a goldish color pearl I was sold! totally turned me off to kandy right now lol

lol, nice. Cadillac has a redish color on the new lacs that has a pearl, but would look damn nice with a nice heavy gold pearl in it.

yea, dats whats up. ive been workin on my car for like 3 yrs on and off, shit i have 4 kids, lol so u kno. if my car aint ready by june, imma burn dat bitch, lol. imma drop it off at the paint shop like in 2 weeks for a simple metallic maroon paint, i already got some 24s and da motor rite, so im almost there, int will be next later later. good work tho.

[quote name='St. Pete' date='Mar 23 2009, 06:10 PM' post='831883']



then place the windage tray on and hand tight'n the remaining bolts from the kit & the oil pump bolt its self that will olhd everything in place. & torque to the corect settings. (oil pump bolt torqued to 65 ft/lbs & windage tray bolts to 35 ft/lbs) But use the correct torque settings for you engine as I said earlier these are just for SBC, BBC & other makes may have different settings.


You better tack weld that pickup id hate for it to fall out and you lose oil pressure